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Masherbrum

Coordinates: 35°38′24″N 76°18′21″E / 35.64000°N 76.30583°E / 35.64000; 76.30583
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Masherbrum
K1
Masherbrum, July 2004
Highest point
Elevation7,821 m (25,659 ft)[1]
Ranked 22nd
Prominence2,457 m (8,061 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates35°38′24″N 76°18′21″E / 35.64000°N 76.30583°E / 35.64000; 76.30583[1]
Naming
Native nameمشہ بروم (Urdu)
Geography
Masherbrum is located in Pakistan
Masherbrum
Masherbrum
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
Masherbrum is located in Gilgit Baltistan
Masherbrum
Masherbrum
Masherbrum (Gilgit Baltistan)
Map
About OpenStreetMaps
Maps: terms of use
45km
30miles
Pakistan
India
China
Gasherbrum V
48
Gasherbrum V
Rimo III
Rimo III
Apsarasas Kangri I
Apsarasas Kangri I
Diran
Diran
Muztagh Tower
Muztagh Tower
K6
K6
Yutmaru Sar
Yutmaru Sar
Baintha Brakk
Baintha Brakk
Crown Peak
Crown Peak
Baltoro Kangri
Baltoro Kangri
Yazghil Dome South
Yazghil Dome South
Sherpi Kangri
Sherpi Kangri
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Rimo I, Rimo massif
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ultar, Ultar Peak, Ultar Sar
Ghent Kangri
Ghent Kangri
Haramosh Peak
Haramosh Peak
Skil Brum
Skil Brum
Momhil Sar
Momhil Sar
Sia Kangri
Sia Kangri
K12
K12
Malubiting
Malubiting
Teram Kangri I
Teram Kangri I
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Yukshin Gardan Sar
Passu Sar
Passu Sar
Pumari Chhish
Pumari Chhish
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri III
Saser Kangri II
Saser Kangri II
Mamostong Kangri K35
Mamostong Kangri K35
Skyang Kangri
Skyang Kangri
Trivor Sar
Trivor Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Shispare or Shispare Sar
Chogolisa
Chogolisa
Saser Kangri I, K22
Saser Kangri I, K22
Batura III
Batura III
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Saltoro Kangri, K10
Kanjut Sar
Kanjut Sar
Batura II
Batura II
Rakaposhi
Rakaposhi
Batura Sar, Batura I
Batura Sar, Batura I
Masherbrum, K1
9
Masherbrum, K1
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
8
Kunyang Chhish (Kunyang Kish, Khunyang Chhish, Khinyang Chhish)
Distaghil Sar
7
Distaghil Sar
Gasherbrum IV, K3
6
Gasherbrum IV, K3
Gasherbrum III, K3a
5
Gasherbrum III, K3a
Gasherbrum II, K4
4
Gasherbrum II, K4
Broad Peak
3
Broad Peak
Gasherbrum I, K5
2
Gasherbrum I, K5
K2
1
K2
The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height.

Legend:
1:K22:Gasherbrum I, K53:Broad Peak4:Gasherbrum II, K45:Gasherbrum III, K3a6:Gasherbrum IV, K37:Distaghil Sar8:Kunyang Chhish9:Masherbrum, K110:Batura Sar, Batura I11:Rakaposhi12:Batura II13:Kanjut Sar14:Saltoro Kangri, K1015:Batura III16: Saser Kangri I, K2217:Chogolisa18:Shispare19:Trivor Sar20:Skyang Kangri21:Mamostong Kangri, K3522:Saser Kangri II23:Saser Kangri III24:Pumari Chhish25:Passu Sar26:Yukshin Gardan Sar27:Teram Kangri I28:Malubiting29:K1230:Sia Kangri31:Momhil Sar32:Skil Brum33:Haramosh Peak34:Ghent Kangri35:Ultar Sar36:Rimo massif37:Sherpi Kangri38:Yazghil Dome South39:Baltoro Kangri40:Crown Peak41:Baintha Brakk42:Yutmaru Sar43:K644:Muztagh Tower45:Diran46:Apsarasas Kangri I47:Rimo III48:Gasherbrum V

 
Location in Gilgit-Baltistan
LocationGilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent rangeKarakoram
Climbing
First ascent1960 by George Bell and Willi Unsoeld
Easiest routeglacier/snow/ice climb
K1 Mountain, view from Talis
K1 Mountain, view from Hushe
Masherbrum view from Surmo, Gilgit Baltistan.

Masherbrum (Urdu: مشہ بروم ; formerly known as K1) is a mountain located in the Ghanche District in the Gilgit Baltistan region of Pakistan. With an elevation of 7,821 metres (25,659 feet), it ranks as the 22nd highest mountain globally and the 9th highest in Pakistan. It holds the distinction of being the first mapped peak in the Karakoram mountain range during the Great Trigonometrical Survey, leading to its K-number designation as "K1".[2]

Etymology

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The etymology of the name "Masherbrum" is indeed a subject of some debate and uncertainty. The exact origin of the name may still be open to interpretation and further research. While "brum" is understood to mean "mountain" in Balti, the origin of "masher" remains less clear. One suggestion is that it may come from "mashadar," which means a muzzle-loader, possibly alluding to the distinctive curvature or shape of its summit as observed from the Baltoro Glacier[3] (and in Persian, "masheh" means both matchlock and trigger, and "dar" is a suffix meaning "having").[citation needed] Others have noted that "masha" means lady, and thus "Masherbrum" is the "queen of peaks".[3]

In India, this mountain peak is known as "Mahasherbaram", which comes from Sanskrit word referring to "The White Tiger".[citation needed]

Geography

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Masherbrum is the highest peak of the Masherbrum Mountains, a subrange of the Karakoram range. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) peaks of the main range of the Karakoram which includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousanders, namely K2, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak and Gasherbrum II.

The Masherbrum Mountains lie to the south of the Baltoro Glacier and the main range of the Karakoram lies to the north of the Baltoro (which is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram). However, the "normal route" to Masherbrum is along the Hushe Valley which flows south from the summit.[4]

Climbing history

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In 1856, Thomas Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorams; K2 was the name he gave to the nearby peak behind K1 when viewed from Harmukh). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.[5]

Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by Fanny Bullock Workman and her husband, Dr. William H. Workman.[6] It was first attempted in 1938 from the south, by a group led by James Waller which included Dawa Thondup and J. O. M. Roberts. The attempt failed just short of the summit, when J.B. Harrison and R.A. Hodgkin, severely frostbitten, had to return due to bad weather.[7][8][9]

Two more unsuccessful expeditions took place, in 1955 by a team from New Zealand and in 1957 by a UK team which included Don Whillans (on his first visit to the greater ranges).[10] In 1955 the team reached c. 7000m.[11] During the 1957 attempt Bob Downes died on the mountain[12] and the highest point reached by the team was c. 200m below the summit.[13]

Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by George Irving Bell and Willi Unsoeld, led by the former, in an American-Pakistani expedition including Nick Clinch.[14] They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties. Two days later team members Nick Clinch and Pakistani Jawed Akhter reached the summit. Masherbrum is the highest peak in Pakistan where a Pakistani man reached the summit on the first ascent expedition.

The Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.

In her book, Voyage au Bout du Vide: Une Cordėe Alpine au Masherbrum,[15] the French mountaineer Christine de Colombel [fr] provides a dramatic account of her 1980 attempt, with David Belden, to ascend Masherbrum in alpine style. Their three-month expedition, bedeviled by bad weather, ended in failure when avalanches swept their camp and injured de Colombel, leading to a desperate three-day retreat in whiteout conditions.

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b c "High Asia I: The Karakoram, Himalaya and India Himalaya (north of Nepal)". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2014-05-27.
  2. ^ Curran, Jim (1995). K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Mountaineers. ISBN 0898864550.
  3. ^ a b Carter, H. Adams (1975). "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram". American Alpine Journal. #20 (49): 52–57. ISSN 0065-6925. Retrieved 25 April 2024.
  4. ^ "Masherbrum Base Camp (4500m), Karakoram, Pakistan". Summit Post. Retrieved 26 April 2024.
  5. ^ Mason, Kenneth (1987). Abode of Snow. Diadem. ISBN 9780906371916. Retrieved 24 April 2024.
  6. ^ Workman, Fanny; Workman, William Hunter (1916). Two summers in the ice-wilds of eastern Karakoram: the exploration of nineteen hundred square miles of mountain and glacier. E.P. Dutton & Co. Retrieved 22 April 2024.
  7. ^ Roberts, J. O. M. (1939). "The Attempt on Masherbrum, 1938". Himalayan Journal. 11.
  8. ^ Goodwin, Stephen (25 August 2003). "Obituaries: Robin Hodgkin – talented mountaineer turned educationist". The Independent. Retrieved 22 April 2024.
  9. ^ Waller, James (1939). The Everlasting Hills. William Blackwood & Sons.
  10. ^ "Manchester Himalayan 1957". MEF – Mount Everest Foundation. Retrieved 25 April 2024.
  11. ^ Hewitt, L.R. (1956). "The second attempt on Masherbrum" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #61: 29–37. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 22 April 2024.
  12. ^ "The R O Downes Hut" (PDF). Climbers Club Journal. 2013. Retrieved 22 April 2024.
  13. ^ Walmsley, J. (1958). "Masherbrum, 1957" (PDF). Alpine Journal. #63: 169–184. ISSN 0065-6569. Retrieved 22 April 2024.
  14. ^ In Memoriam section Archived September 27, 2007, at the Wayback Machine of the American Alpine Journal, 2001
  15. ^ de Colombel, Christine (1981). Voyage au Bout du Vide: Une Cordėe Alpine au Masherbrum '. Fernand Nathan. ISBN 9782207230824.

Sources

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